P.R.I.D.E.'s Voluntary Codes of Practice

P.R.I.D.E.'s Voluntary Codes of Practice

The full Mush with P.R.I.D.E. voluntary sled-dog care guidelines reproduced in detail, covering dog-yard housing, feeding and watering, training and conditioning and more.

P.R.I.D.E. stands for Providing Responsible Information on a Dog's Environment. The bond between sled dogs and humans is one of the oldest of its kind, and modern owners are proud of their dogs as canine athletes bred and trained to do what they love – run as part of a team.

Mush with P.R.I.D.E. is dedicated to the responsible care and humane treatment of sled dogs in their traditional and modern uses. Its voluntary guidelines can be downloaded; we have also reproduced them below to facilitate comparison with the British Columbia voluntary codes of best practice.

  • P.R.I.D.E. = Providing Responsible Information on a Dog's Environment
  • Dog yard for 10 dogs: at least 1,000 sq ft of pens, or 1,450 sq ft for tethers
  • Recommended minimum 100 sq ft of space per dog in fenced runs or pens
  • Tether chains 5–7 ft long on posts 3–4 ft high; always with at least one swivel, never cable
  • Dogs should NOT be continuously housed on concrete; clean up waste at least once a day
  • Quality feed: minimum 15% fat and 25% protein; check body condition by hand every 2–3 days
  • Full PRIDE care guidelines reproduced and compared with British Columbia's voluntary codes of best practice

About the Guidelines

Since the 2nd Edition of the Mush with P.R.I.D.E. Sled Dog Care Guidelines, scientists have made great strides in understanding dog physiology, psychology and behaviour. Researchers studying working sled dogs – often with the support of their mushers, some of them P.R.I.D.E. members – have validated care methods practised for more than a century, while challenging other traditions long held among mushers.

Based on a consensus of dozens of the world's most experienced mushers, the Guidelines describe what they consider responsible, humane and practical care and training. Since first published in 1993 they have become one of the world's most respected and widely distributed resources on good sled dog care, reflecting the best available current information.

The Dog Yard and Housing

Beginner mushers are often surprised by how much space a kennel needs. A dog yard for 10 dogs requires at least 1,000 square feet of pens, or 1,450 square feet for tethers. A dry, well-drained area is best for the dogs' feet and for disease control: locate the kennel on a slight slope or high spot to improve springtime drainage, with shade to keep dogs cool in summer and a sunny, wind-protected aspect to conserve their energy in winter.

The ideal surface depends on location and confinement method. Soil suits well-drained sites but harbours disease organisms and requires diligent feces pick-up; sand, wood chips, wooden platforms or fine gravel suit wetter ground. The Mush with P.R.I.D.E. Guidelines Committee firmly stresses that dogs should NOT be continuously housed on concrete; those kept on it must be allowed to exercise on other surfaces several hours each day. Cleaning up waste at least once a day keeps the environment pleasant and helps control diseases such as parvovirus and intestinal parasites.

Confinement Systems

Your confinement system must reliably and safely prevent escape while allowing enough room to move freely and engage in species-typical behaviours such as running and jumping. Tethering is a common, traditional and economical way to confine multiple sled dogs; the only controlled scientific study comparing tethered dogs to penned ones found no evidence it is unsafe or inhumane (Houpt K). Chains should contain at least one swivel to prevent tangles that can choke a dog, and cable should never be used because it wraps around legs and can cinch like a snare.

Using a top-mounted post and swivel chain, each dog needs a strong chain of 5 to 7 ft on a post about 3 to 4 ft high. A 5 ft chain gives slightly more than 78 square feet to exercise in; a 7 ft chain allows nearly 155 square feet. Fenced runs or pens should provide at least 100 square feet per dog, with chain-link or woven-wire fencing buried 6 to 12 inches into the ground and at least 5 ft high to discourage climbing. Intact females require a secure heat pen to prevent unplanned litters.

Social and Psychological Stimulation

Recent research indicates that social and psychological stimulation in the housing area may matter even more to a dog's physical and mental health than space. Dogs are highly social and thrive where they can see, smell and safely play with each other; isolation from teammates is associated with an increased incidence of behavioural abnormalities.

Provide a stimulating environment with toys, chew bones and other safe objects, rotated frequently between dogs. Interact with each dog while doing chores, and above all take them on frequent training and conditioning runs – working with teammates amid the sights and scents of the trail is the best possible stimulation for working dogs. If you live near others, teach your dogs to be quiet out of respect for their right to peace.

On-the-Road Housing

Dogs should travel in dog boxes or airline crates, restrained to prevent injury to themselves and other occupants of the vehicle. Boxes should be large enough to stretch and turn around in, with dry bedding, adequate ventilation, user-friendly latches, and a secure attachment to the vehicle. They should not be open or vented at the rear of the truck, as the vacuum created behind it can suck in exhaust fumes.

Dogs should be taken out (“dropped”) several times a day and can be safely left for eight hours at night as long as the vehicle is stationary. Keep water buckets clean, avoid parking where other dogs have been to limit exposure to disease and parasites, and always rake up straw and waste and dispose of it properly.

Feeding and Watering

Sled dog sports span many breeds and sizes in almost every climate, so there is no single perfect diet – the ideal one depends on a dog's genetics, age, physical state, training regimen, environment and available food sources. Diets usually consist of commercial dry food, meat-based food, or a combination. Choose a fresh product of the highest quality available, relatively high in fat (15% minimum) and protein (25% minimum); poor-quality pet foods do not provide adequate nutrition for working sled dogs.

Monitor body condition by running your hands over the dog every two or three days: the ribs, spine and hip bones should be easy to feel but neither buried in fat nor protruding. At peak demand a sprint dog may require two to three times its off-season food, and a long-distance racing dog three to six times. Requirements also change during pregnancy, lactation, growth and old age, so adjust intake accordingly.

Water

Water is the most essential part of a feeding regime. Deficiencies in protein, fat, vitamins or minerals may take days or months to show, but dehydration affects health immediately and, untreated, can be fatal within hours. A dog's water requirement may double during open-class sprint racing and increase three to five-fold during long-distance racing.

In warm weather, keep clean, fresh water available at all times; below freezing, encourage consumption by offering warm, baited water. Offer about 1½ quarts two to three hours before training, with smaller amounts afterwards to help cool the dogs down. Monitor hydration by the dogs' hunger for snow and by checking that a lifted skin-tent on the shoulder disappears within one to two seconds.

Training and Conditioning

Many training principles depend on your dogs' activity, with variables including climate, terrain, age and breed. Training falls broadly into two categories: education and physical conditioning. When planning a schedule, weigh your goals against your dogs' abilities – counting miles alone is deceptive, as the conditions they encounter (steep hills, heavy snow, extreme temperatures or wind) matter too.

Anything you do repeatedly is educational, so be sure you want your dogs to learn it and never send mixed messages. New mushers should consult books and experienced mushers, but also use common sense: never ask your dogs to do more than you are reasonably certain they can accomplish.